Peasant
194 Elizabeth St., bet. Prince and Spring
Telephone (212) 965-9511
Open Dinner, Tuesday to Sunday
Cost Entrées $18-$24
Credit cards Visa, MasterCard, American Express

This Nolita treasure presents its riches in a simple manner. Echoing the peasantry of former times, the focus is on the hearth. The similarities however, end there. The young, chic crowd and flavorful food elevate Peasant to a level of hip sophistication.

The simple decor exudes a sense of relaxation. At first, the room seems a little too dark, despite the mirror-dotted brick walls, but the absence of light enhances the warm glow of the wood burning oven and bustling open kitchen. And rightly so, because the food at Peasant is very good.

The rustic Italian fare features fresh, seasonal ingredients brought to life by generous amounts of garlic, tomato, delicious olive oil, herbs and spices. Wood-roasted cuttlefish served in terra-cotta delivered a peppery heat that lifted the flavors. Chef Frank de Carlo's signature porcini risotto lived up to its reputation as a rich, earthy concoction with perfect texture and consistency. But when they miss, the pasta dishes lack zip, and the fish, though tasty, is overcooked.

The 45-selection regional Italian list harbors a few gems, such as Colombini Morellino di Scansano 1997 ($36) and Allegrini's Verona Palazzo della Torre 1997 ($40), and the prices are fair, but a bit more breadth and depth would make the list stronger.