




New
York Magazine, The Italian Top 10, Adam Platt,
June 2, 2003
Rustic and brick oven are two overused
terms in Italian-food circles, but if you want to trace them to their absolute,
etymological core, this is a good place to start. Since opening over three
years ago on the fringes of Little Italy, Frank De Carlo’s spare,
bunker-style restaurant has been a late-night haunt for food scholars seeking
the essence of roasted eggplant, say, or perfectly oval pizza bianca, or
crackly, wood-cooked sardines. The food is served at crowded oak tables,
in piping hot terra-cotta pots, and the feeling you always get, late in
the evening, when the ovens are roaring, is of taking part in a communal,
mildly bacchanalian, gourmet event.
The
New York Times, Restaurants, Willsiam Grime, July
11, 2001
The concrete floor and the brushed-aluminum chairs send off warning signals.
Is Peasant, despite the name, going to be an exercise in deprivation chic?
The whitewashed brick walls and bare wood tables don't offer much hope.
But closer inspection suggests that all is not as it seems. At the far end
of the room, a brick pizza oven radiates heat. On a counter in front of
the open kitchen, apricots, tomatoes and grapes have been massed in abundant
display.
Even the forbidding industrial chairs spring a surprise. They are form-fitting
and inexplicably comfortable. The black-clad waiters turn out to be Jimmy
Olsen's in disguise, full of gee-whiz enthusiasm and can-do optimism. Peasant
may be cool, but it's not cold.
New
York Magazine, Burn This, Hal Rubenstein, May 1, 2000
Dentists still get plagued by novocained clowns asking them why they're
always "so down in the mouth." Female flight attendants continue
to deal with bedroom-eyed seniors offering "coffee, tea, or me?"
And know what food critics hear? "I found this really great place,
but I don't want to tell you about it, because then you're going to tell
everyone and wreck it!" Thank you. Nice to know our words have such
a positive effect.
Wine
Spectator, Trendsetters, Bruce Sanderson, April 16,
2001
This Nolita treasure presents its riches in a simple manner. Echoing the
peasantry of former times, the focus is on the hearth. The similarities
however, end there. The young, chic crowd and flavorful food elevate Peasant
to a level of hip sophistication.
Newyorkmetro.com,
Review By Adam Platt, 2003
Peasant is exactly right. From its stunningly backlit brick-walled kitchen
that features only open-fire cooking to its incredibly appealing Tuscan
menu, chef-owner Frank De Carlo has reason to bust his buttons every night,
and you have almost too many reasons to undo a couple of yours. I like the
little bowl of sweet ricotta cheese served gratis to the rowdy food scholars
in the house, and I'm also partial to the brick-oven-baked rabbit, stewed
in cannellini beans with salty strips of pancetta, and the perfectly oval
pizza bianca pooled with olive oil.
Jamesbeard.org,
The Great Italians, July 16, 2003
"Peasant is exactly right," New York Magazine noted when Frank
DeCarlo's Nolita restaurant opened two years ago. DeCarlo's simple cooking,
performed over an open fire, made fans of critics as well as top area chefs,
all of whom craved the "incredibly appealing," as New York Magazine
described them, pure flavors of dishes such as wood-fired pizza with black
olives and anchovies or roasted guinea hen with fava beans. DeCarlo started
working at restaurants at age 15 in his native New Jersey. By 19, he had
a position at Il Cortile under Donato Deserio, and he worked his way up
to executive sous-chef within a year. After Deserio returned to Italy, DeCarlo
worked the line at Le Cirque and as executive chef of Mazzei. He also ran
the kitchens of Manhattan restaurants mad.61 and Circa, where he stayed
for three years before leaving to open Peasant.
Food Arts Magazine, House a Fire, Christopher Styler, Jan/ Feb 2004
La Cucina Italia, Review, Lisa Merlini October 2001
Gourmet Magazine, Nothing Like a Flame, Jonathan Gold, June 2001
The Art of Eating, Edward Behr, Summer 2004

